Nuku Hiva - a week to prepare and explore; waterfall walk

Next stop,  the biggest village in the Marquesas, Taiohae on Nuku Hiva island, with a beautiful, sheltered harbour. Plan A was to stay two days then sail to the Tuamotus. But the weather at those low-lying atolls looked as if it would be pretty unpleasant after our arrival so we decided to sit it out here. 

We bought provisions, fixed the outboard engine, bought fuel and filled the gas bottles. etc etc. Plenty of time to socialise with other cruising yachties including the Freja family, and Mike and Kylie on their way back to Australia from the America's cup in Bermuda on their Beneteau Oceanis "Slice of Life"

We made a side trip to Hakaui, the first anchorage that we had completely to ourselves. An extended family lives in the bay; they maintain the archaeological remains of the village where royalty lived in pre-European times. Towering volcanic spires loom over the bay. There is no road access; the family travel to Taiohae by boat, on horseback or on foot. The house where Taniha and Tama live is full of their hunting trophies (pigs, goats) and craft work. 

We walked up the valley to view the third highest waterfall in the world. It’s a 14km hike there and back on a rough slimy track. We crossed several streams, one with a gigantic grandmother eel in it. The family charge each person FPF1000 (about NZ$12) so I made a quick paddleboard trip back through the surf to find the cash. Katya chose not to pay but stayed in the valley with the family and picked amazing quantities of fruit. Nico came with us and swam at the base of the waterfall. 

The next day Katya decided that she loved the Marquesas and would like to stay longer - so she left Rumpus and will spend some time here. 

I will make a separate post about the Bastille day parade. Here are photos of the waterfall walk. 

We were told that when we see this sign we proceed (!) across the stream and around the pinnacle to the cascade pool...

Kristin and Nico after a slippery clamber

Ancient guardian of the old village where royalty once lived. 

Rupe, Paul, one of the local family, and Kristin. The Toyota surf was brought in by barge to carry heavy loads the few hundred metres up the valley paths. It's fair to say it has seen better days, but Rupe thinks it would  be pretty good for D'Urville Island......(?)

Taniha's hand. The back of his hand is a 'night sky' symbol. His index finger has insects/mosquitos, the middle finger is the tropic bird design, and the other two fingers have representations of gods. 

Ua Pou - Lush and lovely

From Tahuata we sailed 60 miles or so to tiny, diamond-shaped  Ua Pou, with spectacular towers of volcanic rock wreathed in clouds.

To get there we passed "Haut-fond Dumont DUrville" - a shallow part of the ocean discovered by a famous French explorer who named a few things in NZ also...

The lush gardens and beautiful villages of this island led us one evening to the barraques, where young women and men were dancing and drumming on an outdoor basketball court; Katya was entranced by their tattoos. The club rooms nearby were decorated with coconut and breadfruit leaves and a little restaurant was open for the month of July. The next day there was volleyball and kai for a family gathering at the beach. 

Rupe and I walked up through a beautifully kept valley road lined with brilliant flowers and leaves, then found some fresh stream water for a quick wash. 

We saw manta rays at the wharf at night - feeding on the baby fish attracted to the lights. Graceful, captivating and HUGE:

The island's geology is truly spectacular. The spires are the remains of lava that came up through the  middle of existing volcanoes, and because of its different composition, hardened and remained as the other rock weathered. 

The hair-raising airport on Ua Pou. Downhill, downwind takeoff. No room for  error.

Dust designs, Ua Pou. 

Tahuata - getting to know the locals, one way and another

Our next stop was Tahuata; a beautiful golden sand beach lined with coconut trees. Nico decided to row ashore and enjoy the blessings and beauty of nature in the outfit he was born In. We watched him stroll naked into the coconut grove surrounding a house. He was chased back to the beach by the hostile residents shouting " GO BACK TO YOUR OWN COUNTRY!" He tried to point out (in perfect French) that he was in France, was he not?….

We visited the next bay; a spectacular cove surrounded by high forested hills. Next to us in the bay was the huge beautiful yacht Silvertip, often seen in the Hauraki gulf and bay of islands. When they left we were the only yacht in the bay.

Rumpus, Katya, Nico

A little jewel, with astonishing beaches and a friendly welcome at the village of Hapatoni. I bought a 'hoe' (Marquesan carved paddle) there.

Copra drying shed; noni fruit has recently replaced copra as the most lucrative crop.

I met Tehina who brought out her ukulele and we enjoyed a  great singalong with some Rarotongan songs that we both knew. 

She showed me the stone church, built so solidly with coral cement that it wasn't possible to demolish a wall to extend it. So it's tiny, but big enough for the monthly visit from the priest.

The children of the nearby villages were all gathering for a picnic.

I also met Tehina's sister Leonne and Leonne's husband and son with their magnificent tattoos, depicting family stories, strengths and struggles.

Landrovers are the way to go in the Marquesas Islands. 

Marquesas - Hiva Oa

Marquesas Islands

We arrived on 4 July after an 18 day passage from the Galapagos.  

Our landfall in the Marquesas was the port of Tahauku, near Atuona, on Hiva Oa island. The artist Paul Gaugin is buried above Atuona on a hill overlooking the sea, under frangipani trees. His red granite grave is a recognition of his talent and achievements. Red granite is  usually reserved for royalty and chiefs. We were shown the grave and the Gauguin museum by Andrés, a Norwegian artist of some considerable merit and charm whose home is full of stunning Marquesan artifacts. The port is a few km from the little township, so we enjoyed stretching our legs. The locals readily pick up hitchhikers so we easily got a ride back with the boxes of provisions. 

A creation story - the island names of the Marquesas archipelago

When I asked about the names of the islands, I was told this story. 

There was once a pair of lovers who floated in the sky. They wanted to be together, but they didn't have anywhere to live.  

So the gods agreed to make a house for them. The islands of the Marquesas are their house. Each island represents part of the house. The house was built overnight and the final island, Tahuata, represents the creation as the light of dawn creeps into the sky.
Marquesan paepae have an assymetrical roofline, stone foundations and floor, and carved support poles. This is the sketch I made as Tehine told me the story. Translation may be slightly off as she was speaking in French and Marquesan maori:

Marquesan islands

Atuona was a bouncy anchorage with a tricky landing spot. Nevertheless the town was charming. Rupe took the opportunity to shave off his 'passage beard'.

Squishy the Squid - a story for Rupe's grandchildren

Here is the story of Squishy the squid, which I wrote in 13 instalments for Rupe's grandchildren and the kids on Freya. This is because the satellite phone would only take messages of a certain size for iridium emails....

Squishy whole story 

By Kristin 

This story is based on true events on board the sailing yacht Rumpus, crossing the eastern Pacific Ocean en route from the Galapagos to the Marquesas. 

For Daniel & Emerson Lash and Amelia Wilson. 

Also for Victor, Anna and Ludwig on board our companion sailing yacht Freya. 

🐙🐋🐠🐟🌊🐳🦈🐙

Squishy the squid and his very large family lived in the Pacific Ocean just south of the equator.

As he grew up, Squishy played with his thousands of brothers and thousands of sisters, darting about and squirting ink at them. He was happy, but he longed for an adventure. 

He asked his mother: "What are the big shapes gliding above us with those  noisy twirly-whirlies?

"Oh Squishy", she replied, "those are Humanboats with propellers. Humans use them to travel across the top of our world on the Surface.  It's dangerous up there on the Surface. Bad things once happened to some of your uncles who went up there." 

"Wow" said Squishy, "the Surface sounds so cool! I'm not afraid - i really want to go there to see a Humanboat up close."

"Before you do anything stupid like that," his mother said, "go and see your great aunt Octave the Octopus. She is very wise, so I hope she can convince you not to go anywhere near the Surface" 

Squishy part 2

Squishy swam down to the Seaweed Rocks to find Octave the Octopus. 

"Octave, I want to go to the Surface to see a Humanboat up close. I think it would be fascinating and I need an adventure. Please tell me what you know about Humanboats.  My mother doesn't want me to go, but I'm so keen!"

Octave writhed out of her hole and looked at him for a while. 

"Well," she said,  "some Humanboats are safe. The sailing boats usually have kind humans on board. But..... the big bright white night light  Humanboats are VERY DANGEROUS! They lure you with their lights and they know you can't resist. 

"They are trying to catch all of you to make you into calamari with breadcrumbs! 

"Why can't you just live in a crevice like me and change colour from time to time? That should be enough entertainment for any self-respecting mollusc." oozed Octave. 

"Octave, I'm super smart and I have friends who know all about the Surface. 

Thank you for your advice, but I'm afraid you haven't changed my mind....I'm still going! I'll find a nice sailing Humanboat to visit and then I'll come back and tell you all about it!" said Squishy. 

"Well, Octave replied, "whatever you do, stay away from those big bright white night light Humanboats. Beware! Stay away! "

"Yes, I will" said Squishy, and swam off to meet his friends. 

Squishy part 3

Although Squishy was a squid, with thousands of brothers and thousands of sisters, his best friends were from other species. Flying fish, a jellyfish, and a lantern fish.  

He met them at the Reef Dropoff, to tell them about his plans. 

"I'm going to the Surface, guys!" he said. Who's coming for an adventure with me!?" 

"Oh, hey, Squishy mate, it may be an adventure for you but I do it every day" said Flash the flying fish; "with my flying squad!

"We cruise up there and get airborne, and check out the Humanboats, especially the sailing boats. 

"Actually, the other night I flew onto a sailing boat with some of the boys just to check it out. It was easy! 

After we'd spent a few moments moonbathing on the deck, a human shrieked, picked us up by the fins and threw us back. No worries!"

Squishy part 4

   

You're such a big talker, Flash!" said Nelly the Jellyfish. "I go to the Surface all the time too, so that humans can admire my beauty. They love me;  I swim around their sailing boats to show off my fascinating tentacles. But if any humans get too close to me, I sting them! Ha!  

"I can beat that, Nelly" said 

Flash.  "My squaddie Flick here  is an ace pilot; he flew straight through a hatch window the other night to see how the humans sleep inside their Humanboats!  And he landed on a human, who squealed and threw him back! Choice!

"Flick and I can train Squishy how to do that....what do you think, guys?"

"Well...I don't usually go to the Surface" said Volt the lantern fish. I prefer the ocean depths. Much safer. No big bright white night light Humanboats.   And if I need to see anything, I just turn on my personal lantern  on my head. 

"But this could be interesting.  I can't wait to see Squishy try to fly, so I'll come join you. Then I'll go back to my comfortable dark home in the lugubrious depths of the sea"

Squishy part 5

The night of Squishy's big adventure to the Surface arrived. After training with Flick and Flash, he was confident that he could propel himself from the top of a wave into the open hatch of a Humanboat. Although his mother and Octave had warned him again about the big bright white night light Humanboats, he was undeterred. 

Flash's flying squad went on a reconnaissance mission to find a sailing Humanboat, with kind people inside. They came back very excited. 

"There's one just ahead of us with black paint on the bottom, and white paint on the top. The hatches are open and there are kind humans on board. We know! This is the same boat that Flick jumped into the other night. The humans woke up and threw him back! 

This sailing Humanboat is called Rumpus!” 

Squishy part 6

Squishy and his friends swam and the flying squad flew until they were in some big waves next to Rumpus, the sailing Humanboat with kind humans on board.  

Nelly the jellyfish and Volt the lantern fish waited just under the Surface while Flash, Flick and Squishy prepared to fly. 

"There's a good open hatch to aim for, Squishy!" said Flick.  “It's right next to the hatch I flew into the other night.  

"Are you ready??"

"I'm ready" said Squishy. "You'll be right beside me, won't you?" 

"Sure thing, mate. We"ll head for the foredeck; you go in that hatch. Good luck!"

They launched from the top of a wave as it rolled towards Rumpus; Flash and Flick lined up the foredeck; Squishy aimed for the open hatch; the wave crashed, they flew, and they landed! They were on board a sailing Humanboat! With kind humans on board! 

Squishy part 7

Squishy, Flick and Flash had succeeded. All their hard  training was worth it to get on board Rumpus, the sailing Humanboat with kind humans on board. 

But things were about to get very bad and dangerous. 

As Flash and Flick were moonbathing on the foredeck, they saw in the distance, all around them,  9 big bright white night light Humanboats, looking for Squishy and his big family, to catch them and make them into calamari with breadcrumbs.

"Oh no! Where's Squishy???" they shouted. 

"He went into the open hatch !

"Is he OK? Will a kind human throw him out? and if so, will he be irresistibly attracted to the big bright white night light Humanboats? 

"We have to save him!"

They slid down the deck of Rumpus and looked into the open hatch. There was Squishy, resting on the toilet seat. 

"Squishy! Are you alright!?" they cried. "We've come to rescue you!"

Squishy part 8 

Flash and Flick knew that they had to rescue Squishy from the toilet seat on the sailing Humanboat called Rumpus.

 What if a human sat on him!!?  Would he squirt ink? Would the human get a black bottom? Would the human be kind or cross? And all around there were the dangerous big bright white night light Humanboats waiting to lure Squishy into their nets. 

But Squishy was oblivious to these dangers. 

"Don't worry about me, boys! This is luxury! My own private swimming hole with a circular deck! I flew in  straight through the open hatch like you trained me to.  This swimming hole is called Jabsco Marine Latrine - fancy, eh? What good luck! 

"I bet you wish you were here instead of slithering and flapping around on the deck!"

"No, no, Squishy! That's a TOILET!" shouted Flash and Flick.  You could be sat on and crushed any minute! Or worse! 

"What," said Squishy, "is a toilet?"

"It's a private place for humans! They sit on it. They could sit on you! You've got to get out of there!"

Squishy part 9

Squishy was a very smart squid. He realised he had to leave his luxury resort immediately.  

"Quick, then, Flash and Flick! Jump in to the swimming hole after me. We'll swim back  out to the sea where Nelly and Volt are waiting for us!" 

Flash and Flick waited for the right moment. They leaped through the open hatch, flew down into the toilet, and swam as fast as they could through the pipes behind Squishy. 

The three brave adventurers flushed themselves through the smelly toilet pipes and out to the open sea. 

"Thank goodness you're all safe!" blobbed Nelly the jellyfish. 

"Well done, boys! You rescued yourselves! You didn't even need a kind human to throw you back!l” buzzed Volt the lantern fish. 

"I can't wait to tell my thousands of brothers and thousands of sisters about our adventure!" said Squishy.

The five friends left the Surface and started swimming back home.  They were exhilarated about their adventure....but it wasn't over yet. 

Squishy part 10

As they were swimming home, Nelly noticed Squishy was behaving very very strangely. 

"Must......go....to......the.....light......must....go.....must.....go......Must....go....to....the....light...." Squishy said in a very spooky voice. 

"What's the matter with Squishy?" asked Flash; "he's gone completely strange!"

"Must.....go....to....the.....light....must....go..." chanted Squishy. 

"Oh no!" said Nelly, "it's those big bright white night light Humanboats all around us! They're luring Squishy! He's powerless to resist! What do we do? We have to save him from becoming calamari!" and again she nudged Squishy with her tentacles to stop him swimming away. 

"He's helpless!" cried Flash and Flick. "He can't resist the lights!

"We're going to lose our friend!"

"Must.....go....to....the....light.....must....go" intoned Squishy as he struggled to get away  from Nelly's tentacles. 

Squishy part 11

Squishy's big adventure at the Surface was turning into a disaster. 

As Octave the Octopus had predicted, the big bright white night lights of the Humanboats were luring Squishy away from his friends as they tried to swim home. 

The friends were starting to panic. 

"Now, everyone, stay calm. I may not be a great flyer, and I don't have beautiful tentacles, but I think I have a solution......." pondered Volt, and he swam ahead of Squishy. 

"I'll turn on my lantern and you all nudge Squishy so he swims to follow me, instead of towards those killer Humanboats" 

So the friends nudged Squishy into line behind Volt. 

"Must.....go....to....the....light...." chanted Squishy, as he turned to follow Volt. 

"It's working!" squealed Flash "he's coming home with us! Hooray! Well done Volt - keep swimming! 

Squishy part 12

Squishy's mother was visiting Octave the Octopus at the Seaweed Rocks; they were starting to worry about the friends and their dangerous trip to the Surface. They could hear the engines of the 9 big bright white night light Humanboats and they knew how vulnerable Squishy would be. 

"Oh I do hope they get home soon," worried Squishy's mother. " I can't believe Squishy would take such stupid risks! He is usually a very smart little squid ! " 

"Yes he is, but......Oh look!" cried Octave; "there they are! Look at Volt with his lantern on! He's leading Squishy home!"

And as soon as they saw Volt's lantern  swimming towards them, all of Squishy's thousands of brothers and thousands of sisters were powerless to resist it. 

"Must....go....to....the....light........." they all chanted in their tiny squid voices.  And as they got closer to Volt they saw Flick and Flash, Nelly, and best of all........

"Squishy! they all squealed. 

Squishy part 13 

Thousands of squid squealing is an amazing sound. Their squeals warned all the other squid who were starting to swim towards the big bright white night light Humanboats.

"Squishy's  home! Come and join us to celebrate! Swim over here, away from those lights,  or your future will probably involve pasta and garlic, or breadcrumbs! 

At the centre of this huge gathering of squid, Squishy's mother and his great aunt Octave were hugging the 5 adventurers with all their tentacles. 

Then heroic Volt turned off his lantern and swam down to his cave at the bottom  of the sea. Flick and Flash flew back up to the Surface to join their squad, and Nelly went off to float with her jelly friends. 

The humans on the big bright white night light Humanboats couldn't understand why they didn't catch any squid at all that night. They had to go home with empty holds and explain this mystery to their big bosses in China. 

"I had a great time at the Surface, mum" said Squishy, "I didn't see any humans, but I found out what brave and loyal friends I have. They saved me!" 

"Yes they did, Squishy, and thank goodness for that. We love you very much and we can't wait to hear all the stories of your grand adventure.  Promise me you won't go to the Surface ever again!" said his mother. 

"I won't go back to the Surface" promised Squishy. "I'm staying here with you and my thousands of brothers and thousands of sisters - and of course my fantastic adventurous friends! 

THE END

Islands to islands: our 18 days from Galapagos to Marquesas

Rupe started the engine to motor out from our Isabela anchorage - and none of the navigation instruments were working. No chart plotter, wind data, speed, depth, etc. A significant problem at the starting gate of a 3000 mile voyage. 

Our friends on Freja and on Due West rallied to help. After several hours of investigation Anders found that the maxi view mast instruments were damaged - and with the Seatalk system, if one part is broken, the whole thing fails. So, the very easy decision was made to unplug the mast instruments and thus restore function in all the rest. We were good to go. 

Luckily, this inauspicious start was the worst moment of the voyage. After a few quiet days, we had solid-to-vigorous trade winds driving us across the eastern Pacific to the beautiful Marquesas islands.  Up to the half way point we accompanied Freja, with a Danish family of 5 on board. 

our companion boat Freja

Anna, Ludvig, Merete, Anders and Victor from Freja

It was a great comfort to be able to call them on the VHF to compare notes about navigation, sail plans and life on board. We sailed very slowly and conservatively for the first few days and we were blessed with great weather; only a couple of bumpy days and nights.  We were conscious that our crew, Katya and Nicolas, were complete novice sailors and that the limitations of our power system obliged us to actively helm almost all the time, rather than relying on the autopilot. This constrained our sail choice, but the strategy paid off. 

Different helming styles.....Nico

Kristin

Katya

Rupe

Facts, figures and findings from our passage:

Duration: 18 days and nights, arriving in the Marquesas on 4 July. 

Most miles in 24 hours: 182

Number of fish caught: 3 tuna, 1 wahoo, 6 mahimahi, untold suicidal squid and flying fish

maximum number of reefs in mainsail: 3

delicious lunches made by Katya: many

bread loaves baked by Kristin: 8

Visits from dolphins: 6

Whale sightings by Katya: 2

watermaker sessions: 4

yoga sessions on board: many 

breakages: one or two, nothing major

time zones: 4 - Ecuador, then Los Angeles, then Anchorage - finally Marquesas time. 

moon: waning from half moon

stars: trillions

Mahimahimahimahi!

For the full story of Flash the flying fish and his friend Squishy the squid, see next post (recommended reading age: 5)

Experimenting with a new sail plan. Certainly added some colour!

Freya in the sunset

Slowing down to stay in pace with Freya

one of our delicious lunches

yoga in the companionway. This 'bind' is probably the only pose possible  in this spot.

Katya watching the dolphins at sunset  -  half way!

Celebrating at the half way point

The very welcome sight and smells of land - Hiva Oa, Marquesas